Stop a draught from a door or window
Save £50–150/year in 30 mins — no tradesperson needed
Draughts through doors and windows can add £100–200 to annual heating bills. The fix takes 30 minutes and £5–15 of materials — and it pays for itself in weeks.
Last updated: March 2025
Only basic tools needed — most homes already have them.
Before you start
Draughts account for up to 25% of heat loss in older UK homes. External doors and single-glazed or older double-glazed windows are the main culprits. Draught-proofing has one of the highest returns on investment of any home improvement — materials cost £3–15 per door, and the saving shows up on your first heating bill.
Do not block trickle vents (the small slots at the top of window frames) — these are intentional ventilation required by building regulations in newer homes to prevent condensation and damp.
You do not need to remove any doors or windows for this job.
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Tools & materials
- ✓Tape measure— to measure frame lengths before buying strip
- ✓Scissors or craft knife— to cut strip cleanly to length
- ✓Clean cloth— to wipe the frame surfaces before applying adhesive
- !Self-adhesive foam strip (P or E profile)— P-profile for small gaps, E-profile for larger — buy enough for all four sides of the frame
- !Door sweep or brush strip— for the gap under an external door — the biggest single source of draughts
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Prices shown on retailer sites. Always check current pricing before purchasing.
Find exactly where the draught is coming from
On a cold or windy day, move your hand slowly around the edges of the door or window — along the top, both sides, and the bottom. Cold air will be noticeably cooler on your palm. For smaller draughts, hold a lit candle 20cm from the frame and watch for the flame to flicker or lean. Mark the draughty sections with masking tape so you remember where to treat. Why: draught-proofing strips are cheap and quick to apply, but applying them in the wrong places wastes material and leaves the actual gaps untreated. Take two minutes to find every entry point before buying anything.
Most people get this done in under 5 minutes.
Where beginners go wrong
Buying the wrong profile thickness. Foam strip that is too thick prevents the door closing; too thin and it does not seal. Measure the gap before buying. E-profile for 4–7mm, P-profile for 1–4mm.
Not cleaning the frame first. Adhesive foam strip will not bond to a dusty or greasy surface and will peel off within days. Wipe and dry the frame before applying.
Only treating one or two sides of the frame. Draughts come in at all four sides of a poorly-fitting door or window. Check the top, both sides, and the bottom before deciding you are done.
Blocking trickle vents. The slots at the top of window frames are intentional ventilation — not draughts. Blocking them causes condensation and damp. Leave them alone.
When draught-proofing will not help
A door or window frame that is rotten, cracked, or visibly warped — the frame itself needs replacing, not sealing
A misted double-glazed window (condensation between the panes) — the sealed unit has failed and needs replacing by a glazier
Persistent cold from a wall rather than a frame — this may be missing or damaged cavity wall insulation, which is a different job
Cost breakdown
Recommended starter kit
Five tools that cover most home repairs.
- →Adjustable spannerAmazon·Screwfix
- →Screwdriver setAmazon·Screwfix
- →PTFE tapeAmazon·Screwfix
- →Spirit levelAmazon·Screwfix
- →Tape measureAmazon·Screwfix
Want everything in one go? Get it on Amazon
What you just learned
You know the different types of draught seal, how to choose the right profile for your gap, and how to apply them so they last. This is one of the highest-return DIY jobs you can do — materials cost less than a takeaway and the saving on heating is immediate.
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⚠️ Watch out if you rent
Draft proofing with self-adhesive strips is reversible and does not damage the property — this is reasonable maintenance any tenant can do. For door sweeps that need screwing in, get your landlord's permission first.